In 1984, the Taipei Water Management Branch was established under the Urban Planning Act to protect the water sources serving the Taipei area. This designated area encompasses the regions of Xindian, Wulai, Shiding, Pinglin, and Shuangxi in New Taipei City, covering approximately one-third of the city’s administrative territory. The tea industry is a vital traditional sector within this zone, holding cultural and economic significance. However, residential construction, tourism, forestry, agriculture, and mining have been subject to strict regulations since the establishment of the specific area. While these measures have effectively safeguarded the safety, quality, and quantity of water in the upstream catchment area, they have also impacted the residents’ rights to housing and development. Additionally, the growing challenges posed by climate change have further compounded the difficulties faced by the tea industry in this region.
On December 6, the NTNU Sustainable Development Office hosted a tea-tasting event to explore Taiwan’s unique tea-drinking traditions. To understand water’s vital role in tea and appreciate the importance of water resource conservation. Protecting water sources ensures clean water and promotes the sustainable development of tea culture. The event featured a special guest speaker, Master Shuicheng Lai, a tea expert with years of experience in the tea industry. Master Lai guided participants through the history and distinctive features of tea culture, sharing various tea-tasting techniques to experience Taiwanese tea’s unique flavors and aromas.
The event began with a question: Should tea be brewed hot, cold, or hot and then cooled? Most participants assumed tea should be brewed hot. However, the instructor explained that hot tea fails to quench thirst and may lead to frequent urination as the body works to expel the heat. Moreover, brewing tea hot inhibits the activity of certain heteropolysaccharide compounds, reducing its potential to help regulate blood sugar levels. In contrast, cold-brewed tea can stimulate the body’s heat production, challenging the belief that cold drinks harm health.
The instructor then introduced the production methods of different types of tea, categorized by their degree of fermentation. Completely fermented tea, such as black tea, allows the leaves to wither after harvesting, followed by a sufficient reaction period to complete fermentation. Non-fermented teas, like green tea, are processed immediately after harvesting through blanching to halt enzymatic activity. Partially fermented teas, between the two extremes, represent Taiwan’s primary tea production. This category includes teas like Oolong and Wenshen Paochong. The process begins with Solar withering of freshly picked leaves. Subsequently, indoor withering is carried out, and leaves are uniformly agitated. This step ensures even dehydration and enables the leaves to develop floral or fruity aromas, a crucial factor determining the quality of partially fermented teas.
In addition to the degree of fermentation, the shape of tea leaves also directly impacts the flavor during tasting. For example, strip-shaped tea leaves often have a lighter, more delicate aroma, while ball-shaped leaves tend to deliver a richer, more robust taste. These variations in appearance are linked to the rolling process. Basic rolling curl the leaves into strips. Semi-spherical or spherical shapes, the leaves are wrapped in cloth bundles and subjected to “ball rolling,” a method commonly used for teas like Tieguanyin and High-Mountain Oolong. However, the manual ball-rolling process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. Today, most spherical tea leaves on the market are shaped using machines known as “tofu machines.” The key to distinguishing between handcrafted and machine-processed tea is the appearance of the dried leaves—handmade teas often retain visible tea stems. This highlights a significant challenge for the tea industry: balancing the pursuit of efficiency with preserving traditional craftsmanship.
During the tea-tasting session, the instructor highlighted the unique characteristics of Wenshen Paochong tea produced in the Xindian, Shenkeng, Shiding, and Pinglin areas. This tea is known for its light, floral Oolong aroma with a lingering herbal and floral aftertaste. To enhance the experience, participants were provided with two types of teacups—one made of porcelain and the other of clay—to explore the subtle differences in aroma and flavor through drinking and sniffing.
Tea tasting is a profound art. Factors such as the material and shape of the teacup, the steeping time, water temperature, and even the water-to-tea ratio can all influence the aroma and taste of the tea. The instructor shared practical tips for appreciating tea fragrance. For instance, gently dipping a spoon into the tea and sniffing it can intensify the aroma. Additionally, smelling the residual scent from tea leaves after drinking offers a different sensory experience from the tasting process. While anyone can brew tea, crafting an excellent tea requires extensive professional training and experience. Mastering this craft involves an intricate understanding of technique and an appreciation for the essence of tea.
Tea plants are susceptible to environmental changes, and their growth conditions directly impact the flavor of the tea leaves. During the event, the instructor presented a batch of tea affected by typhoons and pest infestations. Participants could distinctly taste the mixed and imbalanced flavors, confirming climate change significantly impacts tea production. Increasingly frequent extreme weather events, such as droughts and heavy rainfall, have made tea cultivation increasingly unpredictable.
Pinglin, located within the Feitsui Reservoir catchment area, has been under development restrictions since 1980 due to its role in protecting the water resource. This has preserved its land environment, ideal humidity, and sunlight, making it one of the best regions for producing high-quality Paochong tea. In recent years, the Taipei Water Management Branch has actively promoted low-impact development (LID) techniques in tea farming and the use of low-phosphorus fertilizers, and they have fostered cross-sector collaboration and public-private partnerships. These initiatives have effectively reduced nitrogen and phosphorus runoff from farmlands into the Feitsui Reservoir, significantly mitigating the risk of eutrophication. In addition, tea farmers were guided to use low-phosphorus fertilizers. After two years of trials and implementation, results showed improvements in tea yield and quality, alongside a marked decrease in phosphorus levels in soil and rainwater runoff, alleviating the impact on water resources.
Moreover, these measures have enhanced carbon reduction benefits, attracting businesses to participate in corporate social responsibility initiatives. This has promoted Pinglin’s sustainable development, creating a virtuous cycle. Balancing the dual objectives of water resource conservation and local revitalization, Pinglin demonstrates the potential of sustainable strategies to achieve harmonious development between the tea industry and environmental sustainability.
Lecturer Shuicheng Lai teaches tea tasting methods.
